All 2 entries tagged Food

Arrivederci Venezia!

After an intense ten weeks of studying at Warwick’s Palazzo Pesaro Papafava in Venice, my time living abroad has finally come to an end. I took a moment to reflect upon my overall experience here whilst crossing the serene lagoon, taking the Alilaguna boat for one last time on my way to Marco Polo airport. Studying abroad has undoubtably been a unique opportunity to embark on an in depth exploration of Italian culture. I have practised my language skills daily and have increasingly become familiar with particular colloquial terms. To a large extent, I am confidently leaving Italy with the knowledge that when I eventually return I will have the ability to not only order food in restaurants and buy tickets for museums and transport but also, most importantly, I can enjoy refreshing conversations with the locals and benefit from their perspectives.

During my final week in Venice I decided to ensure that I had visited all of the beautiful churches which are open to the public. There are many spectacularly-decorated Catholic churches to see: one hundred and thirty nine are spread across the nineteen islands in the lagoon. I have been spoilt for choice for opportunities to view exquisitely ornamented façades and impressive paintings such as those by Titian, Tintoretto and even Veronese on display. However, I had left one of the most intriguing examples of architecture for last. The Church of San Giorgio Maggiore is situated on an island which shares its name and can be seen as a key focal point from the walk to St Mark’s Square, opposite the Piazzetta. A formidable example of Renaissance classicism, the San Giorgio Maggiore was designed by the famous Andrea Palladio during the second half of the sixteenth century and was home to Benedictine monks.

I ventured across to the island on a vaporetto boat and was instantly awestruck by the imposing nature of its massive, white marble columns. These columns are in stark contrast to the entrances of Venice’s other churches, such as the gothic red brickwork of Basilica Santi Giovanni e Paolo. Inside the vast church itself there are high stone ceilings and undecorated walls. Two important works by Tintorretto are exhibited here; The Last Supper and The Fall of Manna. The domed ceiling of the basilican nave, leading to the altar, allows for the bright sun to shine within. Visitors are encouraged to climb to the top of the church’s very tall bell tower which provides stunning views of Venice and its surrounding islands, particularly San Giorgio Maggiore’s neighbour - the Giudecca.

As my term drew to an end in early December, Venice began to welcome in the Christmas spirit. Celebrating the lead up to Christmas in Italy was a truly incredible experience because I was able to become acquainted with typically Italian traditions and Christmas foods. The lights and a pretty Christmas tree were put up in St Mark’s Square, making the atmosphere very warm and cheerful. Cafés began to sell the well-loved Italian hot chocolate, which is much more rich and luxurious than that which we drink back at home in the UK. I also took a special trip to Verona, my newly-found favourite city, to see their excellent Christmas market with my friends. Here I was able to sample frittelle (a fried, doughnut-like flat bread) and also panettone. Both of these treats were very delicious and indulgent! I will certainly be purchasing a panettone for my family to enjoy this Christmas.

Overwhelmingly, I have loved my time exploring Venice and much of Northern Italy this academic term. My greatest highlight has been making lasting friendships with the other History students who also chose to take the Renaissance Stream option. We have bonded over our shared moments of homesickness and endured the difficulty of a perilous aqua alta together, still being able to thoroughly enjoy all the beautiful culture which Venice has to offer. I am confident that I have gained some incredible friends with whom I can reminisce and laugh about the countless memories which we've made together these past ten weeks. All that is left to say is, thank you to the Warwick History Department for giving me this wonderful opportunity, I will cherish it forever. Arrivederci Venezia!

Samantha Haynes : 10 Dec 2018 15:07 |  Tags: Christmas Food History Student Travel Venice Verona |  Comments (0) |  Close comments |  Report a problem

Buon Appetito! A Review of Venetian Restaurants and Culinary Experiences

My preconceptions about Venetian cuisine as being similar to that in the rest of Italy have vanished since I arrived here four weeks ago at the end of September. Venetian cooking truly stands out as unique in contrast to the techniques I have sampled in regions in both Northern and Southern Italy. It especially differs from the rich pasta and pizza dishes of Sorrento and Naples.

Reinventing and adapting traditional Italian flavours to bring out the best from the local produce, Venetian menus place a strong focus on fish and seafood. The extraordinary freshness of clams (vongole), mussels (cozze), and scallops (scaloppine) is celebrated by respectable restaurants who design menus which place seafood at the forefront. Caught locally and usually procured from the famous fish market Mercato di Rialto, which opened on the Grand Canal as early as 1097, seafood and fish take centre stage in Venice. Handmade pasta and pizza act as secondary elements to balance the strong, salty flavours of fish such as anchovies (acciughe) and seasonal vegetables work in harmony to complete primi and secondi piatti.

However, due to the bustling tourist-filled nature of a few very well-known and romanticised sites in Venice, such as the Rialto bridge and Piazza San Marco, many visitors only venture as far as restaurants within these areas. They leave Venice with the assumption that the food served here is extremely expensive in comparison to it’s quality and yes, within the very popular confines of that specific area, tourists may be justified in that opinion. On the other hand, in my pursuit to escape the tourist traps and to try authentically Venetian cibo I have visited a range of restaurants and bakeries with my friends and also family, who came to visit me last week. These experiences have fortified my love for Venetian food.

A short distance away from the crowds, the largest district of Venice’s six sestieri and located towards the east, Castello is home to many traditional restaurants which serve delicious food at a is moderately price. As my accommodation for this term is also within Castello, I have gone out for dinner most to eateries within this vicinity. A firm favourite restaurant of mine has been Nevodi which is halfway up the vibrant Via Garibaldi. Visiting with my mum and brother for our evening meal was a wonderful experience because the menu offered a variety of exciting seafood dishes which we all enjoyed, including a mouthwatering risotto. The service and the wine list were both excellent however, my highlight was dessert: a heavenly combination of dark liquid chocolate and broken biscuits called salame di cioccolato.

If you are looking to taste exquisite pasta dishes then I recommend either going to 6342 Alla Corte in Zona San Giovanni e Paolo or Spaghetteria 6342 A Le Tole Pizzeria. Both restaurants are situated in Castello and serve equally impressive fresh pasta for approximately between 10 to 16 euros. I particularly enjoyed the duck fettuccine at Spaghetteria 6342 and the quintessentially Venetian spaghetti neri con scaloppine at 6342 All Corte: which also offers outdoor seating in it’s beautiful courtyard. For dinner closer to the cultural hub and to try some delicious mussels, Trattoria Al Gazzettino (Sotoportego de Le Acque 1) in San Marco can be praised for it’s credibility and for being reasonably priced in comparison to the rest of options nearby.

Of course, that leaves perhaps the best for last. Open until 11:30pm and easily accessible from both the Rialto and St Mark’s Square, Gelato Fantasy on Calle Dei Fabbri (San Marco) offers amazing gelato in multiple yummy flavours such as pistachio, tiramisu and even so-called ‘Crema del Doge’. Overall, I urge visitors to Venice to explore the wide variety of outstanding and authentic foods which the locals are so proud to produce. Buon appetito!

Samantha Haynes : 25 Oct 2018 11:35 |  Tags: Food Restaurants Venice |  Comments (0) |  Close comments |  Report a problem