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October 31, 2018

Warwick in Venice leaves Venice

The Warwick in Venice programme consists of two site visits outside of Venice, which is a great way to see hidden historical and natural gems in the countryside of the Veneto region. One is to the city of Mantua in the final week, and the other is to visit two UNESCO recognised Palladian villas near Vicenza where we ventured to recently which were designed by Renaissance architect, Andrea Palladio. These villas have an underestimated significance to Venetian history, particularly in their economic and cultural functions.

Villa Emo

The first Villa we arrived at was the Villa Emo, which was bathed in morning silence and home to sprawling greenery, something not experienced often amidst the usual hubbub of tourists permeating even the furthest corners of Venice, and the uninterrupted urban maze of canals and palazzi. The Villa was completed in 1565 for the Emo family as part of a policy by the Venetian Republic to encourage patricians to move to the terraferma, or Venetian holdings on the mainland, following the War of the League of Cambrai from 1509-16, in order to produce agricultural and industrial goods. At first glance, it would be hard to view this Villa as one with agricultural purposes as, although flanked by acres upon acres of fruit trees and fields, it is assembled in an impressive classical Roman style. However, a closer inspection of the threshing area on the front, and a look at the contrasting utilitarian aesthetic of the back of the building, really indicate the primary agricultural purpose of the estate. Inside, every corner of every wall is decorated with the most spectacular frescoes which have been perfectly preserved. The images burst with colourful fruits and vegetables grown on the land, but also stay faithful to the piety of the Emo family with biblical imagery. Alongside the Christian, are frescoes portraying classical figures, such as the Muses. Inside and out, it is plain to see both the economic and cultural significance of the Villa.

Bassano del Grappa

After stopping for lunch in the nearby scenic Alpine town of Bassano del Grappa, which used to be home to a wooden bridge designed by the same Andrea Palladio until it was destroyed in 1748, we travelled to the second Villa. The Villa Godi Malinverni, the first Villa designed by Palladio, has both an early modern and a more immediate historical importance, serving as the British military headquarters in northern Italy during the Second World War. Bassano del Grappa also has significance as a battlefront during the World Wars. The Villa and the war cemeteries nearby have thus hosted several royal visits over the last century. The early modern agricultural nature of this Villa is somewhat lost now, as the gardens follow a more modern arrangement of flora and fauna. Nevertheless, the interior of the Villa still retains similar stunningly preserved frescos, but with a diminished focus on the biblical, and more of a personal feel, with depictions of various family members amongst the classical imagery. Sitting beautifully yet formidably atop a hill with breathtaking views of the countryside of the Veneto, this Villa was the favourite of many of the Warwick History students.

Villa Godi Malinverni 

To be shown a UNESCO heritage site of two stunning Palladian Villas in the serene countryside of the mainland which had a considerable impact on the economic and cultural activities of the Venetian Republic was certainly a welcome change to what can be an overwhelming busyness of the city. The regular site visits are a stimulating part of the Warwick in Venice programme, but to travel to overlooked sites hidden amongst fields and mountains brings another exciting aspect.


Charlotte Wilson, University of Warwick History Finalist


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